Fisher ID Edge Tips


Target ID - General

Targets that varied by more than one or two numbers were overwhelmingly not worth recovering.

Silver dimes come in about two numbers above a clad dime. Right in between a clad dime and clad quarter signature. Dug a silver quarter and it comes in just above a clad quarter.

if you have a weak target or jumpy numbers & you are not "sure" about digging it or not, the Edge makes it simple to swap into all metal mode. Then you can sweep the same spot & sometimes get a better number reading as all metal is more powerful than disc
I also found that all metal, being a deeper mode, helped me double check some “iffy” non-locking signals encountered in disc mode.

TIP: If your having a lot of bouncy numbers, try increasing the sweep speed a bit. The numbers should smooth out. The ID Edge likes a faster sweep speed, and it will give a bit better ID for you.

The Edge did well above average on the on-edge Merc at 6" near iron hitting it from a broad range of angles and giving a good signal even with the coil raised well off the ground. That puts it up there with the high gain "relic" machines on this particular coin. ID on the dime was about as expected, most TID machines read this at the highest Silver Icon or number. The Edge would read +36 most of the time but drop down into the dime range if swept just right over the target.

Even though the depth numbers tell a lot, you will also get just as much valid info from simply raising the coil while swinging. If the depth says 99 and the signal is strong,
but it falls off fast as you raise the coil then it's small on top of the ground. The opposite and it's big and deep.

On those really tough iffy signals co-located with iron the Edge will bounce around like the C$, but get the sweep just right over the target and it will usually repeat within a couple numbers even on the bad ones.

Don't rely entirely on the high tone hits for coins. Around iron you have to dig the teens and up which means listening for the mid-hi tone as well.

-36 bouncing up to a +36 is 99% of the time iron falsing.
old pennies can read as low as about +20 but seldom do.
nickels always came in at around +10 give or take a number.
copper pennies +26 - +28 mostly
clad dimes +28 - +30 but once in a wile +26 or +27 will turn up a dime.
clad quarters +32 - + 34
silver dimes all ways show up as +31 - +33
silver quarters +33 - +35

Target ID - +36

that is on of the reasons I run m y disc -36 unless you watch he meter constantly you will miss the - hits of the iron but if you open the disc up to accept iron you will hear it in the audio very easily.  always be suspicious of +35/+36 hits and pay close attention to them. And yes your detector is acting perfect aluminum cans are a pretty high conductor.  hit your pinpoint though and it will be super wide a coin will be a quick tight hit a dang can is huge in pinpoint.

these objects always lock on and don’t jump around like the trash. It will lock on to good base metal's too like brass and stay pretty constant on the I'D'. Moving I'D' numbers are the first sign of trash especially if the target is large in pinpoint.

hunting relics its different if you get any kind of + hit I start digging and sometimes I dig some - hits that are close to zero they can be a co-located target being pulled down by target averaging.

when you get the +36 to -36 iron bounce on a target because you get the high silver tone and the low iron tone without looking at the meter. As far as unmasking I don’t think it really helps much in that department .the tones that I like to investigate is the low mid tone to low tone bounce that’s the -5, -10 , that start out at say +7 to + 11 or so and bounce to negative numbers. I was mentioning those could be co-located targets.

If you get a 36 hit that's deep and don't go negative dig her up to check her out. here's a +36 on the edge from a few years back. Its a Morgan Dollar locked 36 and never moved no negative bounce.

Also, I did get some +36's, which turned out to be negative numbers (-) after a switch in swing direction. Digging these targets, they usually turned up as a long piece of wire, or a hunk of junk metal

I am familiar with the +36 reading on the Excel being the “I don’t know what this is” ID and the same response seems to be carried forward with the Edge.

It is a fact that certain types of iron will read at the highest numbers on all ID machines. If you look at the ID numbers which run from -36 up to +36 on the Edge as a being on a circular graph -36 is actually next to +36 and that is the problem. The magnetic properties of iron make it read with negative numbers but iron takes on conductive properties too. Combine the magnetic and conductive properties and that’s when you get those darn +36 readings! Fortunately you can learn to recognize most of the iron that does this fairly easily. Normally with the new Fishers you should be seeing a mixed reading if its an iron target, if the screen shows bouncing readings of say -35 -36/+36 it is more than likely iron. Also, passing the edge of the coil over the target should give you the iron reading. During normally searching be sure to keep your coil sweep smooth and controlled, speeding up or slowing down when sweeping or even changing coil height can cause many false audio hits when hunting in iron infested sites.


with it's pinpoint system and ability to size the object, I get fooled with the Edge almost never.


All-Metal mode with tone ID - Go into the "cP" mode and adjust the disc to -36. Make sure the all-metal icon is not on, and no notches are on. This way you will be hunting as if you were in all-metal, accepting all targets, but will get the benefit of the four tones that are only active in the disc mode. You can then use the combination of the tone, and the numeric readout, to determine your dig no-dig decision.

The factory preset modes on the Edge are simply notch accept patterns for different types of hunting. Fisher should call them patterns not modes. For instance the old coin mode accepts on the high end from 16-36 (someone correct me if I am wrong on the numbers) which pretty much assures you will not miss many IH's

Ground Balance

1. Go to All Metal mode and make sure ground is clear of targets.
2. Lower coil to 1 inch above sand/soil.
3. Push Auto button and hold it in while counting one elephant, two elephant, three elephant. With Auto button still held in, raise coil to about 8 inches and release Auto button. You should hear a single beep.
4. If you hear three beeps, find another clear/clean spot and repeat above steps to double check. If three beeps again then you are most likely already GB'd.

You can check whether you are GB'd. I do the following over a target free area; set sensitivity to 8, go to All Metal mode, bob coil up and down and watch display/listen to see if the machine is reacting to the ground as a target. In my area sensitivity 8 is about as high as you can run it, even if GB'd correctly, 9's a little bit noisy & 10 is very noticeable.

The Edge does not auto-track the ground.

I set it (sensitivity?) to 6,GB it then set it up higher to 8 or 9 with good results.

The Edge GB can be set in both AM and DISC modes

Settings and Strategies

Freshwater beach – Disc at 00
1.    With Sens at 10 and the small coil, the Edge is even more likely to find small targets, notice the small aluminum airplane in the center of the photo.
2.    The Edge with this coil will overload on shallow quarters, so don’t mistake it for heavy iron if you’re in iron trash.. Lift the coil and re-check the target.

This is "my" Edge setup for old sites. Set to cP mode with nothing notched out, disc at -19 to hear some iron and sensitivity at 8. If the iron/nails are real thick close to the foundation, turn the sensitivity down to 5 or 6. Copper wheats and some silver can read as low as the high teens in nail infested spots.. IH's even lower.. deeper nickels in iron are the toughest for the Edge to ID they tend to bounce both sides of the normal nickel range.
…..Yes the lower ID is from (target) averaging. Sometimes you can get them to climb closer to a proper ID if you resweep just right. You really have to pay attention to the tab range when hunting old sites. If the coil only partially sees the target it may report tab, but a resweep will show the proper ID... usually. Some iron will read good until you resweep also... the Edge is pretty good about that.

Beginning with the Edge
To begin, I would maybe stay somewhat basic to start. Put your disc on 00 to accept all "positive" targets. Iron should go negative, unless it's big & shallow to fool the ID. Maybe sensitivity not super high to begin. Maybe 5 or so.
Try a park or a place you can go & dig to see how coins lock right in & the numbers stick on every sweep. As you get more comfortable you can experiment with bells & whistles like notching out things like tabs if they get pesky.......

Sites like that have generally have a ton of iron in the ground. The best way I have found to hunt them is in cP mode with nothing notched out and the iron disc set around 19-21 (I think the poster meant -19 to -21?). You will hear lots of signals but after a while you get used to it. Let the amount of iron you hear determine the sensitivity setting. When hunting close to the buildings chances are there will be lots of nails from re-roofing etc. With the iron disc set where I mentioned it will often be almost solid iron tones within a few feet of the house. Turning the sensitivity down to the 5-6 range and hunting slow will let you pick out a few coins others would miss in those conditions. Copper pennies and dimes often read in the teens in heavy iron nails.

Detect on a line diagonal to the boundaries of the area. It is a tendency for some to walk and detect parallel to a fence line, sidewalk, building or other boundary of a confined space. By hunting diagonally across an area you may pick up some coins that have been masked from other directions.

I had sensitivity at 8, nothing notched out and iron disc at -19. I like to hear the smaller iron especially when running the sens that high in infested areas.

As an absolute beginner preset, set Sens to say 6 or 7, no higher than 8, and disc to 0(zero). Run the machine for several weeks just to get comfortable with where the targets ID. Swing at a moderate speed and approach iffy targets at several angles, not just 90deg, you'll be amazed at the stuff you can pull out of trash.


Sweep speed is very forgiving... separation and response at a moderate sweep is at least on par with the Excel but unlike the Excel you can slow it to nearly a crawl and still get that same depth.

disc settings do not affect depth at all on the digital "Big 3" (C$/Edge/Excel)


Referring to the 10 inch coil -  but what I did find was I could run the edge hotter on sensitivity, why I don’t know I stayed around 9 all day and occasionally slid it up to 10 and it didn’t false hardly at all on the nails like the 8 inch does. and it has an uncanny ability to still separate as good or better than the 8 inch? (still up for debate on this).It wont separate like the 5.75 but how could it. But I believe it might do as well as the 8 plus get more punch.( More punch for sure)

Actually the center ellipse is the receive coil. the shape is unique for sure and has its advantages. The first CZ-5 I had came with that coil and I used it exclusively for many months before getting the 8"'er. Its not that hard to work with if you hip mount the control box and I could hunt all day with it despite the weight.

The main advantage in my opinion is that since the field shape of a coil is actually dependent on the targets under the coil at any given time (as opposed to the generally accepted notion of a transmitted field being blade shaped for a DD or cone/bowel shaped for a concentric) this design gives the coil a unique look at co-located targets and coins "on-edge" that other coils may miss. Whether you hunt with a concentric, a DD, or this one they should all find targets the others miss.

Here's my take on the coils for the Edge. Remember I have just one day with the 10.5.

The 5.75 is the best in dense trash plus no more +/- 36 falses on deep nails.( I believe it does this because it's not seeing the deeper iron?)

The 8 inch has good depth but does false some on the deep iron but it easily identified with a couple extra sweeps.  Separates great for an 8 inch.( good general purpose coil)

The 10.5 has at least 2-3 inches more depth than the 8 inch retains the tight separation of the 8 maybe not quite but close need to experiment more but hardly any falsing on deep nails.( I believe it actually gets a better look on the deeper nails for more accurate I.D.? Again just speculation.)